European Discovery

Lovely view in the Toronto airport lounge

Getting ready to head back to Europe to do a single European Highlights tour this year.  I am sitting in the Toronto airport waiting for the flight to Paris(and waiting, and waiting).  The group is a private tour group with only 5 people.  We will visit Paris, Swizerland, Bavaria(German/Austrian border area), Venice, Tuscany and Rome.  I am really looking forward to it and with only 5 people we will be able to really travel and customize the tour for exactly what they want to do. I am excited to meet them in Paris and will try to find some nice wine for our intro.   I am also looking forward to seeing old friends, my favorite guides, eating in some great little restaurants, walking through the Alps,.. the list goes on.    My next post will be from Paris and it is suppose to be a beautiful sunny day when I arrive.  I hope to have a more enjoyable photo for you all next time.  I also got a new iPhone as an early birthday present that has a 5M camera and HD video so you may be in for some treats on the blog.

–Ellie

Michelangelo's incedible sistine chapel

On day 10 the group had the morning off and then we met and took the public bus to the Vatican Museum.  We took the public bus to the entrance and met my wonderful Rome guide Marilena from walksinsiderome.  I did not go into the museum with them so off they went to see the exhibits, and Michelangelo’s masterpiece Sistine chapel.  The first time that I saw this chapel I had to sit down and just stare at it for quite a long time.  I met the group after they exited the chapel and St. Peters after a couple of hours and they just looked beat!  They said that they enjoyed it but I think they were also very tired because the crowds can be bad inside the museum with the big groups even if we have a private tour.  I think next time we might want to try early in the morning  before the heaving masses arrive.

The next day we caught a train to Naples from Rome.  We were running a bit late which was a bit stressful as the taxi’s went an odd way and we had to find each other in the train station.  We missed the hassle of the “helpers” in the train station which I was ready for this time.  A Canadian woman that we

Our wonderful group with Gaotano in Pompeii with Vesuvius

sat next to had her money stolen from her purse and she things it was them.  There are these people that pose as rather official helpers that help get bags on the train but they are not official at all.  If anyone is thinking of riding the train, really be careful and do not let ANYONE that you do not know help you with your bags on or off the train.  They tried to help us when we arrived in Naples and I really pissed him off because I told him no several times and told my entire group not to let him help.  After about 6 tries he gave up and swore at me.  Our Monetti private drivers met us on the tracks and took us to Pompeii.  In Pompeii we met Gaotano Manfredi who was our fabulous guide through this incredibly preserved Roman city which was frozen in time in 79AD.  We were joined by a family from Canada because they were late(and I had messed up a bit on the date) so he put us together.  it has just poured down rain before they got there but it stopped when we arrived.   We got a fabulous tour and an extra by visiting the bath and brothel outside the walls that I have not seen before.  In the brothel, there are very explicit paintings of various rooms in the establishment and the services performed in each.  I think my group was leaning towards a preference for room #4.  After the tour we continued on to Sorrento.  There was a mess up with my hotel and instead we were put in the Grand Vesuvio but it was just lovely;  all rooms had stunning views of the Bay of Naples.  Sherri voted that if I would have brought her here first she might have mutinied from the tour and just stayed there.

Village of Corniglia walking in Cinque Terra Italy

We left Venice via a nice vaporetto trip up the Grand Canal from Lido to Ferrovia(the train station).  Because the boat starts in Lido, everyone sat up front with a perfect 75degrees and sunny with a breeze in their face to enjoy our last view of Venice.  Our train ride to Cinque Terra was two trains, one EuroStar train from Venice to Milan and a second IC train from Milan to Monterrosso.  I buy my train tickets from a local travel agent in Venice so it is very easy and very little commission and sometimes a discount for the group.  First train was fine but the second one was hotter than heck.  The train conductor did not come into our first class car for a long time but when he did he figured out that it was miserable just about the time when we went through a tunnel.  Arghhh… it got pitch dark; we had no electricity.  He pushed some buttons and then I heard him talking to an Italian family about moving to another car.   We decided to move.  About 30 minutes later, the rest of the Americans in our car did the same thing.  We had a little glitch when we arrived into Monterroso that somehow Susan K.’s luggage was not with the rest but we managed to run back to our first class “hot” seats and found it and got off on time before the train pulled away.  Good grief, disaster averted as she would not have seen it again!!

Susan and our giant pot of risotto

The seaside little town of Monterrosso is just beautiful.  Narrow streets winding upwards into the hills with shops, restaurants, etc and all with a beautiful view of the sea.  We checked into our hotel got rested(many went out for a walkabout) and went out for dinner.  We went to Al Carugio which I just love as a little tucked away treasure.  I talked 3 other people into sharing the risotto con fungi which I had last time which is perfectly cooked risotto still firm but creamy and loaded and full flavored with fresh porcini mushrooms.  DELISIOSO!!  It came in a HUGE clay pot which is the pot they cooked it in.  I really wish I could make my risotto taste like this.  Everything was good but Carolyn’s main was special.  She had the fish soup.  It came in another huge pot and when we gazed in she had what she referred to as “whole animals”; fish tails, whole shrimp, clams, mussels, the works.  I could see fins from where I sat.  She dove into it like a champ but did comment that she was glad her husband and vegetarian daughter were not with her to see this as her daughter would probably be speed dialing PETA. I thought it looked wonderful but when the whole shrimp(eyes, head, tail and claws) was pulled from the broth I heard a “yuck” from Judy.

Everyone had a free day in Cinque Terra and most did 2-3 legs of the hike and had a nice lunch, shopping,etc.  Sherri gets the star for most ambitious or crazy.  She did all 4 legs and I think the last one is scarry.  A very lovely day.

View of Glencoe valley from Ellie's walk on a nice day

Well, the Scottish rain finally hit us while we wanted to be outside.  We drove north from Oban and through the most beautiful valley of Glencoe and stopped at the Glencoe visitor center.  We could barely see the tops of the mountains but everyone could still tell how incredibly beautiful and remote this valley is.  The visitor center tells the story of the McDonald clan massacre of 1692, a very sad day.  It also tells of the unique geology of the area.  I will include a photo of this valley taken on a previous tour to try to give the readers just a brief hint of how stunningly beautiful this place is.  This group has been so enthusiastic about our walking that we all voted to try to take “Ellie’s Highland Walk”.  This is a special walk I discovered in the Glencoe valley that is perfectly level, 30 minutes and ends in a fantastic view which is the picture I included.  When we got to the parking place it was raining sideways and we voted not to take the walk and all were bummed.  We went to the Clachaig Inn for lunch.  It has great food and is the filming location for Hagrid’s Hut in Harry Potter - fabulous.

Rosslyn Chapel near Edinburgh

We continued to Edinburgh and I asked if anyone wanted to make an extra stop at Rosslyn Chapel before going on to the hotel.  EVERYONE did of course.  I waited in the van and everyone came back about 45 minutes later with smiles(despite the cold and rain) and oohhhhs and ahhhss.  They got the last tour of the day with the gentleman that is my favorite of the caretakers of Rosslyn.  This chapel built by the Sinclair family has roots from the time of the crusade(besides being the final spot for the Da Vinci Code) and is carved from head to toe.  I watched a special once on this chapel and there are theories that the Holy Grail is buried under the floor as it is sealed and they have never excavated it.  Even though it is small, it is not to be missed just for the carvings and the historical significance.

Our group with Eddie at Edinburgh Castle

The next day we were to head out for our tour with Eddie up the Royal Mile.  The rain and the wind are still with us but everyone bundled up and head out.  Everyone loved Eddie.  Of all of my guides, he is the one that is best “the story teller”.  In a deep Scottish brogue(which is a bit hard for American ears to understand if not listening carefully), he tells historic facts, legends, and stories surrounding what we see as we walk up the Royal Mile from Holyrood Palace to Edinburgh Castle.  He also wears his tartan colors and kilt which he explains to the group which they love - everything is “wee this and wee that”. By the time that we get all of the way up to the castle, the rain has stopped.  YEHHH!  Eddie tours the group through the castle giving its history, we watch the gun fire at 1:00 then the group is on their own to see the crown jewels and explore the castle.  I take Bev to Decon Brodie’s for some warm soup as she is tired but everyone else wanders, explores and shops.

In the evening we go down to Leith for dinner to a place called Fishers Bistro.  They have the BEST seafood in town I think.  I order my usual large mussels(and so does Chris) and they are just to die for cooked in a broth of white wine, butter, garlic and cream!!  We take the public bus back to the hotel after dinner.  For good or for bad we get a bit of “Scottish color” in the form of a very drunk old Scotsman talking loud on the bus and I think ready to pick a fight.  Eric is telling him “enough old man” and the “discussion” continues until we get off the bus all laughing and rolling our eyes.  Not every tour gets that We get back to the hotel and say our good-byes and promise to keep in touch.  What a fantastic group I had on this tour; so enthusiastic and warm.  I hope they all will return to England and Scotland one day.

I jokingly call this day the London march because we do alot of walking so that we can really see and experience this fantastic city.

Another beautiful day in London, sunny and 70 degrees.  A chance of rain predicted but we do not believe it.  We met Karen, our blue badge guide(one of 3 I use), in Green Park to start our tour.  Karen not only knows her stuff as far as the history of Great Britain and London but is a great story teller and her lovely English accent makes my ears smile; she had my group at hello.  She gave us our introduction to London and the area around the park and Spencer House.  We then made it to the Mall to watch the changing of the guard.  There was no official changing today as too many British soldiers are in Afghanistan to staff it every day, so we saw the horse guard instead.  A little of a bummer but they were still impressive.

Bev on the bridge in St. James Park looking at Buckingham Palace

After the guard and Buckingham palace(the queen is away at Balmoral), we walked through St. James park and through Queen Anne Gate on our way to Westminster Abbey.   St. James Park is one of my favorite royal parks with lots of wildlife, flowers, water.  A peaceful place smack dab in the middle of a very busy city.

Group in front of Westminster Abbey

We then went to Westminster Abbey and had Karen give us her incredible tour.  Not only is the building itself almost overwhelming(foundations over 1000 years old) but it is a fantastic spot to talk about many historic people and events that shaped British history; plus you can visit several great kings and queens in just one place.  Queen Elizabeth I was in fine form today.

After the Abbey we took one of the famous London double decker buses to St. Pauls Cathedral.  I always get our group a 3 day travelcard that is good for both the tube and the bus and then teach them how to ride both and find their way around.  By the end of the day they are usually very comfortable to get around London on their own.

After lunch we visited the inside of St. Pauls Cathedral with Karen.  It is quite a contrast from Westminster Abbey as it is very open, bright, has a dome and you are not walking on dead people when you are on the main floor.  It’s beauty is hard to describe and is a wonderful symbol of the will and strength of the British people that it made it through World War II.  I did not take any good photos but I have some on my website photo tour of England and Scotland.

We finished at the Tower of London.  Another most see site not only for the Crown Jewels and its’ White Tower but they had a new exhibition on Henry VIII.  The group is usually so exhausted they are ready to drop but several choose to go into the Tower and tour around it.  I waited for them to see the Tower and then took them back to the hotel via a Thames River Cruise which is a great way to relax and see the center of London from a different view.  Everyone had a great day.

Tour member comment of the day which belongs to Eric -  Don’t you think that it was kind of dumb for Henry VIII to have such a HUGE codpiece in his armour.  Won’t that just tempt his enemies to chop it off in battle?